Announcement

Collapse

Announcement

Welcome to the NEW iPad Rehab Forum! Everyone is welcome to read posts and learn for free. If you'd like to post your own question on the forum, please click "register" above or go here: http://forum.mendonipadrehab.com/register to enroll as a paid subscriber for $29/mo for unlimited access to our forum support and private signature failure section.
See more
See less

iPhone 6 No Image

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • iPhone 6 No Image

    I have an iPhone 6 no image no prior repair or drop and mo water damage, no LSD, I used known good LCD, I replaced chestnut since pin 28 on J2019 and fl2061 is OL, then image was back but for only for a while, so I replaced chestnut again but still no image (replaced x3). On diode mode J2019 is good same with ZXW. Cant seem to figure out why I have no image, I have back light only no image
    Last edited by GHI888; 02-22-2018, 08:01 AM.

  • #2
    If all lines to chestnut from the connector are good concertrate on lines that go TO chestnut. Also inspect the coil for any physical damage. I was trolled by a se at the weekend that had a coil that cracked away from the pad on the coil itself, so the pad was still soldered to board pad but coil had cracked away so it's good practice to just put the board on its side and visually check it on its sides for cracks as well as any bulging from the top from overheating.

    Comment


    • #3
      Pin 28 is normally OL---compare to a known good board, not zxw. The reading is either very high or OL depending on your multimeter. If in doubt, flip your leads and measure the inverse---black probe on ground and red probe on the pin, this will give you a low number that is not zero. True open line will read OL in both directions. The reason we adopt the convention of red probe on ground for diode mode is because for most lines we get a number in the 0.100-0.500 range. But for lines like this the opposite is true and we can be 'sure' that what we think is OL is actually OL by flipping the leads.

      It is unlikely that this line was your problem. Since the classic fault is LSD, I would desolder the screw bracket to really rule out LSD unless you are 100% sure. After that, check the connector for any tiny inconsistencies that could prevent contact. Check for the presence of image power voltages arriving at the connector and diode mode the connector again.

      Comment


      • #4
        I sure there is no log screw damage. lots or trash inside but no long screw/

        Comment


        • #5
          Did you check diode mode under chestnut when you had it off? LCM_boost for example?

          Comment


          • #6
            I will try to take it off and test,

            Comment


            • #7
              Ideally you’d take readings when off —you replaced it 3 times! There is never a need to replace a chip 3 Times. If you feel certain that your problem was a bad chestnut and you replaced it but that didn’t solve, then you’d for sure take diode mode readings under the chip if you were replacing it a second time to rule out bad placement. A third time would be totally unnecessary.

              Since it it is not off and you didn’t take diode mode readings, it is not worth taking off chestnut just to do readings. Take the same readings elsewhere on the board on the chestnut lines.

              Comment

              Working...
              X