Announcement

Collapse

Announcement

Welcome to the NEW iPad Rehab Forum! Everyone is welcome to read posts and learn for free. If you'd like to post your own question on the forum, please click "register" above or go here: https://forum.ipadrehab.com/register to enroll as a paid subscriber for $29/mo for unlimited access to our forum support and private signature failure section.
See more
See less

What part is missing on my iPad Pro 1st gen

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • What part is missing on my iPad Pro 1st gen

    i am new to the forum so I hope I’m posting this right. I have an iPad Pro 12.9 in 1st generation I am working on a I have an issue. While replacing the touch filter on the board I accidentally knock off one of the capacitors or so I think it’s a capacitor. I have included a photo to help you identify where or what it is. I would appreciate any input you can give.
    Thanks
    Steven
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Welcome to the forum! What problem are you having with the device that you are trying to solve?

    It looks like you have a nice clear picture, and we can read the board and see that the right side of the component is connected to ground. This makes this a tiny capacitor, probably 100pF. This tiny missing cap would not cause a problem, so it can’t be responsible for whatever problem your device is having. Leave it off.

    Tell us a little more about what is wrong with the device so we can help you troubleshoot it.

    Comment


    • #3
      This issue started when the touch screen stop working. As you had warn me it was still connected to the battery when I reconnected the screen and I blew the touch filter that is why I bought the kit from you. While making the repair I knocked that little tiny cap off the board and lost it hence this post.
      Thanks
      Steven

      Comment


      • #4
        Got it. If touch is working after replacing the filter then you are all set. There is no functional consequence to missing a tiny 100pf capacitor. We would not recommend attempting to replace it. If touch is not working then we can troubleshoot.

        Comment


        • #5
          Fingers crossed we’re going in. I will send pictures

          Comment


          • #6
            Jessa
            here is the carnage now what pin on this port do I solder to. It looks the 1st two pins closest to the damage am I right?
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • #7
              It's time to learn to "read the board" Look at the first picture that you posted. Imagine that all the brown solder mask, the paint, was scraped off revealing the copper below. Let's paint the copper that is ground in red, and the copper that is your touch power line in blue. It would look like this. Compare this image to the image you first posted. Try to see how the dark lines on the board in this area separate the touch power line from ground.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	ipad pro ab.jpg
Views:	462
Size:	143.4 KB
ID:	7981

              Comment


              • #8
                This explains it very well thanks for the input.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Your goal is to attach A and B through the filter, but WITHOUT allowing either A and B to connect to ground. That is going to be challenging, because you have exposed a lot of ground that should be covered.
                  I've circled in red all of the exposed ground that I'm worried about.
                  Click image for larger version

Name:	ground2.jpg
Views:	272
Size:	763.5 KB
ID:	7984

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If this job was in front of me, this is what I would do.

                    A.) I would apply UV curable solder mask over all the areas in red, and all other exposed copper, with special attention to the dangerous exposed ground in the center---the red circle. I would cure this with a UV lamp. https://store.ipadrehab.com/search?keyword=uv

                    B.) I would solder the filter to the good pad in a direction away from the connector.
                    C.) I would solder an insulated jumper wire from the trace of the third pin down (it could be soldered to any of the three first pins) connecting A to B.
                    D.) I would lay a small jumper connecting the three touch power pins at the connector
                    D.) I would use my multimeter to make sure I had restored a diode mode reading in the connector for that line that is neither 0 (short to ground) or OL (open)

                    E.) Then I would remove the thin melted plastic from inside the connector near the backlight pins (in the middle of the connector) and I would carefully straighten those pins before applying a screen. If not possible, I would replace the connector and redo my touch power pin jumpers.

                    F.) If the connector looked perfect under the microscope, and diode mode was correct at the touch pins, then I would isolate the battery and install the screen, hoping to have to do it only once. If touch worked, I would not disconnect it, and I'd get the battery attached and the screen sealed.

                    The final product would look something like this
                    Click image for larger version

Name:	finalpro.jpg
Views:	368
Size:	737.9 KB
ID:	7986

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      On second look, one of your backlight filters is also clearly burned. I would replace both of them as well.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I’m going to do what you said. Now I do have a replacement connector but like you said I will install the filter first. If I have to replace the connector I will get my reflow station out but I hope it’s ok as it’s fairly questionable at the moment. I have change them before but they are not easy. Lots of flux I’m told. I’ll do the part where I’ll create the least amount of damage.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Quick question which way does the white stripe on the 2 coils that you sent me point?
                          thanks
                          Steven
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by Scross1220; 02-09-2021, 06:05 PM.

                          Comment


                          • Jessa_the_Professa
                            Jessa_the_Professa commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Those are diodes. They are for the backlight circuit. You only need to replace the diodes if the existing diodes are bad. You’ll have to find and measure the diodes on the board to determine if they are bad or not. Then install the new diodes with the white line in the same orientation as the original diodes

                        • #14
                          Jessa
                          i did finally find out what that cap was that I knock off the board it’s a 2nf. Should I just leave it out or try to put one in?
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by Scross1220; 02-09-2021, 06:12 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            It is nearly always a mistake to replace capacitors in iPhones/iPads. There is no reason to replace this capacitor.

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X